Fan for me runs louder too as it does in 2k21 in 60hz mode which makes me think they set 2k23 to 60hz as default. I'm ok with it on 2k21 though as it is so much smoother and better looking IMO than what I can get on 2k23 and I have a 4k TV - LG C1. As you say, HDR mode is just wrong and when disabled, 2k21 still looks better on the same TV. Granted the trees look better on 2k23 but that's it. The weird blur they put on distanced objects is distracting and not pretty.
The only way I could try and get a good picture is changing TV settings but then while tinkering with this (all on a different input source so I didn't mess with my current settings for my existing games which look absolutely beautiful), I decided why should I have to do this. The game is not great and I still get a glitch in the backswing animation. 2k21 on 60hz is way smoother on the One X - 2k23 is just as smooth however on my Series S but the graphics/lighting are still way off.
End of day for me, 2k21 is beautiful on my current settings, plays great (except the short game failings) and does not have the things I massively hate about 2k23 which put me off playing it, so I'm sticking to 21.
Not much help to you I know - sorry about that.